SF505 



XXI. ..^itome of Dudnermure 

AS PRACTICED ON THE 

ORROCCO POULTRY FARM. 

Being a brief and concise Treatise on the Care of Breed- 
ing Ducks, Selection and Management of Incuba- 
tors and Brooders, and Treatment of Ducklings 
from Shell to Griddle. 
/ 

./-BV- 

W. H. RUDD & SON, 

boston, mass. 

For the Benefit of their Customers. 

Copijrighted 18 SO, by W. H. liudd. 



any or 



More money can be made from ducks than from 
ly or all other poultry combined, but they are such 
voracious creatures that unless proper judgment and 
economy- are exercised in their management, they 
become a source of actual loss instead of profit. All 
large breeders of anj note, now concur in the opin- 
ion that the Imperial Pekin Duck, everything con- 
sidered, is m.ore profitable than any other. 

Breeding ducks require yery little or no whole 
gram, especially corn. If desired to giye them dry 
gram once a day, there is no serious objection to it 
but we should prefer cracked corn, oats or wheat or 
a mixture of all three. During the fall and early 
wmter, they can be kept cheaply and yery M-ell, by 
feedmg three parts of brewers grain and one part 
Indian meal, adding fiye per cent, ground scraps. 
If brewers ^-ain cannot be readily obtained, use 
boiled cheap yegetables, such as refuse turnips, small 



2 ^F^'O 

potatoes, etc., mashed and mixed with twice tliei^ 
bulk of Indian meal and shoi'ts, equal parts by meas- 
ure, and the proportion of ground scraps before 
named. As the egg season approaches, less shorts 
and more scraps should be used, and an occasional 
addition of a little bone meal is then excellent. The 
quantity of scraps must depend upon its effect on the 
stock. It is desirable to gradually increase it to fifteen 
percent., unless it produces scouring, in which case 
the quantity must be diminished. In our dealings with 
the larger hotels we can make very satisfactory con- 
tracts for a plentiful supply of stale bread which we 
use in place of shorts, by soaking it thoroughly in hot 
water in winter and cold water in summer, then drain- 
ing or squeezing it as dry as convenient and thicken- 
ing it with Indian meal, adding scraps in quantity 
depending upon the circumstances before stated. 
Green food must be supplied in abundance to secure 
fertile eggs and other desirable results. When it has 
not been practicable to previously provide green rye 
to be used before anything can be grown in the open 
air, refuse cabbage will do very well. Even apples 
chopped fine need not be dispised — but the breeder 
should make strenuous efforts to furnish green food 
in some form if he expects the highest success, and 
at such seasons of the year as green oats or sweet 
corn fodder can be cut fresh and chopped fine, noth- 
ing equals this for one daily ration. An unfailing 
supply of ground oyster shells should be constantly 
within reach of the ducks, and the receptacle contain- 
ing it should never be allowed to become empty. 

The breeding stock should have comfortable, shel- 
tered, dry, clean quarters and faithful, common sense 
care, to induce early laying and fertile eggs, as one 
earlj' duck is worth at least two late ones. One 
drake to five ducks is about right during the spring 
and the flocks may consist of from twenty-five to 
forty according to circumstances. If given suitable 



r , 3 

cT^yards of perhaps 2000 square feet to flocks of say 35 
(^ and furnished with shade in hot weather, either nat- 
^ ural or artificial, thej^ will do better than with unlimi- 
ted range. No water is necessary except for drink, 
and of this they must have an abundant supply, but 
■- should reach it by thrusting their heads between 
perpendicular slats or some similar arrangement to 
prevent wetting themselves and the floor of their 
apartment. Pekin ducks are naturally very timid, 
and therefore all our movements while attending to 
them should be gentle and moderate. They should 
be kept as quiet as possible and never frightened. 
Even a dog running within twentj^ feet of their j^ards 
has been known to result in the death of several in 
a flock, simply hy the others rushing over and tramp- 
ling them in their fright. 

If we have in our flocks any very superior speci- 
mens which we wish to keep over for breeding stock 
another year, it is an excellent plan after the hatch- 
ing season, to turn them ''out to pasture" so to speak, 
by giving them unrestrained liberty and unlimi- 
ted range, letting them recuperate by wandering 
over fields and through orchards at pleasure for 
two or three months. They will forage most of their 
living, -require but little feeding and when again 
returned to winter quarters will be as good as new 
and ready for the next campaign. 
HATCHING. 
We would never use ducks for hatching, as they 
are poor clumsy mothers. If hens are employed, no 
advice from us is necessary. Where incubators are 
: used, the instructions which accompany all good 
I machines are so explicit, that but few additional are 
j required from us here. In selecting a machine, care 
should be taken to choose one which is not too 
\ unnatural or quick in its operation, as the sudden 
opening of large ventilators, which allows the moist 
air in the t.^^ chamber to escape and as suddenly 



supplies its place with dry cold air from without, to 
escape again in its turn, just when in the proper con- 
dition to remain, has a most disastrous effect upon 
the embrjo, toughens the membrane within the shell 
and seriously impairs the hatch. Many of the duck- 
lings will never get out of the shell, and a large pro- 
portion of those which bj reason of unusual vigor 
manage to hatch, enter the world with constitutions 
so enfeebled or nearly destroyed that they cannot be 
profitably raised to market age, and are therefore 
worse than worthless. 

MANAGEMENT OF INCUBATORS. 
The best place to use an incubator is in a good 
cellar, because there the temperature is comparatively 
uniform and not cold enough to injure the eggs when 
taken from the machine. The more uniform the 
temperature of the room, the better success in hatch- 
ing. The room should not be below 40 Fah. and 50 
is still better. Use the best kerosene procurable, 
both for j^our incubator and brooders. Have your 
incubator running correctly at 100 with thermome- 
ters in the trays, before placing the eggs in it, after 
which do not again touch them nor open the machine 
for at least 24 hours, 30 will do no harm. Lay your 
thermometers on the eggs and in such a manner 
that they can be read through the glass doors while 
they are closed. Keep the egg chamber at 102 as 
now indicated by the thermometers, during the entire 
four weeks of hatching. Do not adopt the idiotic 
idea so often advanced by mere theoretical writers, 
or ignorant, unpractical and unprincipled incubator 
manufacturers, or unsuccessful breeders, neither of 
whom ever raised a thousand ducks in their lives, 
that the temperature should be decreased towards the 
close of the hatch. If any difference in temperature 
was then desirable, it would most surely be in favor 
of iucreaszno- it during the last few hours. Select a 
convenient hour when you can best attend to the 



5 

incubator regularly, and turn and air your eggs twice 
a day. If for instance, 7 o'clock suits you best, then 
let it be 7 a. m. and 7 p. m., as nearly as possible. 

Take a tray from one end of the machine, place it 
on a table of proper height prepared and located for 
the purpose, and close the incubator door instatitly. 
Here is where many fail — by airing the q^% chamber 
as well as the eggs. Avoid all stereotyped exploded 
notions of turning your eggs by placing an empty 
tray over a full one and inverting both. It is unnat- 
ural, and whatever is unnatural is wrong. Simply 
take a few eggs from each end of the tray and pile 
them on those in the centre, then gently roll those 
in the centre towards both ends, letting those just 
piled on top drop into their places, and your eggs are 
turned in the very best possible manner. It has taken 
you not over a minute, and if your incubator has 
been running steadily at not over 102, the eggs are 
already sufficiently aired and the sooner they are in 
the machine again the better. In returning the trays 
however, be sure to change them end for end, and 
also change their places or positions in the machine 
so that they will not occupy the same ones through- 
out the entire hatch. This is essential and of course 
involves taking a second tray from the incubator 
before returning the first. Do not be eternally open- 
ing the machine to inspect the thermometers, for it 
deranges the temperature of the o.^^ chamber and 
ruins the hatch. Never leave the incubator open 
longer than absolutely necessary to remove or return 
a tray. Use no moisture in your machine during the 
first three days. If it is a large one having four 
evaporating pans, introduce one the fourth day, 
another the tenth, another the sixteenth and another 
the twenty-second. We cannot in this brief treatise 
explain 7uhy. Those desirous of knowing more par" 
ticulars are referred to our other w-ritings. 

Duck eggs can be correctly tested by an expert on 



the third da v after placing them in the machine, and 
perhaps sooner, but persons unlanii liar with the busi- 
ness had better defer it until the fifth day, when the 
fertile ones will very plainly show a small central 
spot indicating that the germ has started. All clear 
ones should be removed from the machine. Test 
again say on the tenth or twelfth day and if any have 
made no progress since the first testing, they too 
should be removed. The cheapest 
and best egg tester we know of is 
represented in the figure, and is 
simply a tin pipe to slip over the 
chimney of a kerosene lamp. Should 
be a trifle larger than the chimney 
with a 3-4 inch hole opposite flame 
and a few smaller ones near bottom 
i'^ffllto prevent chimney from breaking. 
To be used in a darkened room. 
An expert takes six eggs at once, 
three in each hand, and rapidly 
passing them before the flame can 
easily test five hundred eggs in fif- 
teen minutes. Any tinsmith can 
make one for a few cents. 
During the last few days of incubation, and espe- 
cially the last few hours, secure all possible moisture. 
If the evaporating pans fail to provide enough, it can 
be obtained by using Avet sponges, damp sawdust 
or similar means. If vapor runs dowm the glass 
doors, so much the better. The heat required in the 
egg chamber to successfully complete the hatch, is 
by far too much for the ducklings already hatched, 
and they should be placed in the nursery below as 
soon as dry and strong, but do not open the machine 
every few minutes to do this — let once in four or 
five hours suffice. 

When ducklings are hatching, do not distuib the 
machine or the eggs further than to see that the 




7 
pipped side is uppermost, for if left underneath, the 
duckling will be pretty sure to die. Remember 
ducklings hatch slowly and are sometimes 24 or 36 
hours or even longer in getting out of the shell, but 
do not hurrj nor assist them except perhaps to free 
their heads and necks if necessary, after which their 
progress into the world is rapid. 

CARE OF DUCKLINGS. 

Ducklings should not be removed from the nursery 
of the incubator for at least twenty-four hours after 
being hatched, and during this time they require 
neither food nor drink. A flat bottomed basket 
warmly covered in cold weather is as good as any- 
thing for removing them to the brooders, upon reach- 
ing which, they should be fed and watered. The 
best food we know of for newly hatched ducklings, 
is johnny-cake which every housewife knows how to 
make, crumbled and fed dry, or soaked in milk. We 
prefer it dry. It is not necessary to make it in the 
most approved style, but it can be composed of say 
half Indian meal, one quarter oat meal and one quar- 
ter shorts. If infertile eggs from the incubator are 
to be fed, they should be boiled much longer than 
usual, (an hour is none too long) then chopped fine 
and mixed with four or five times their bulk of crum- 
bled johnny-cake. Having used up all the eggs and 
johnny-cake, which may last two or three days, we 
commence their regular food of Indian meal and 
shorts, equal bulk. When a few days older, we add 
say five per cent, of ground scraps and a little bone 
meal to their fo'^d, and when two weeks old are feed- 
ing ten per cent, of scraps, and once a day we add a 
teacup full of bone meal to every pail full of feed. 

Newly hatched ducklings in cold weather require 
constant access to warm brooders which they can 
enter and leave at pleasure, and also warm quarters 
outside of the brooder proper, which can usually be 
secured by the waste heat which escapes from it. 



This furnishes opportunity for necessary exercise 
without exposure to the cold of our New England 
March weather. The best duck brooders are so con- 
structed that the ducklings can nestle under pipes, 
or still better, under flat tanks of hot water, placed 
from four to six inches above them, depending upon 
the warmth of the water and the severity of the 
weather. They require brooders a shorter period 
than chickens and always inform us when they no 
longer need one, by ceasing to use it. They should 
however have access to sheltered sunny yards at this 
season of the year, which is of the utmost importance 
They should be bedded down with chaff, short soft 
straw, sawdust, or similar material and kept dry. 
Wet or even moisture in their dwelling is always 
injurious and frequently fatal to them. When young 
they cannot withstand a shower, but must be driven 
into their house and kept there until it is over. The 
yards for each flock should be ample but need not be 
as large as many suppose. A hatching of 300 can be 
divided into two flocks of 150 each and placed in a 
house say 10 x 20 divided into two 10 x 10 rooms, each 
containing a brooder, and in front of this house give 
each flock a yard containing 1,000 square feet. This 
is better than a larger one and the ducklings will 
grow faster and fatten quicker than if allowed their 
liberty. When the weather becomes comparatively 
mild, they will thrive better and grow faster if not 
shut up at night but allowed the liberty of both house 
and yard, provided satisfactory arrangements can be 
made with their numerous nocturnal enemies. 

For the first week or perhaps fortnight, ducklings 
should be fed all they will eat up clean, every two 
hours during the day, and if any food remains, it 
should be promptly and entirely removed. This 
insures a continual good appetite which is of the 
utmost importance. Water should be constantly 
before them to drink but for no other purpose. As 



I 



9 
they become larger, less frequent feeding is neces- 
sary, and when three or four weeks old, four or five 
times a day is enough. In the longest days in sum- 
mer, they should have their first meal as early and 
their last meal as late as they can see to eat, and three 
others at equal intervals between. To make even 
figures we might call the hours 4-30 and 8 a. m., 12 m., 
4 and 7-30 p. M. Some excellent breeders give but 
four meals per day even at that season of the year, 
substituting 10 and 2 — for 8, 12 and 4. Regularity 
is the main thing. 

Where large numbers are raised, the best things 
to feed in or on, are boards say a foot or more wide, 
and any length, 5, 6, 8 or 10 feet, having an edge 
perhaps two or three inches high. Spread the food 
evenly on these boards, and give all the ducklings 
an equal chance that none may get more than nec- 
essary while others get none. 

Too much importance cannot be attached to Avater- 
ing ducklings. Especially if their food is dry will 
they require more drink. They should be allowed 
all they desire, without stint, and it should not be 
withheld from them in the least, for then, w^hen they 
are watered, they are so nearly choked that they 
drink to excess which is very injurious, but if they 
have constant access to it they will not drink too 
much. An acquaintance of ours lost nearly an 
entire seasons hatching and hundreds of dollars 
simply by ignorance on this one point. 

In watering young ducklings care should be taken 
to prevent them from wetting their feathers. An 
ordinary atmospheric fountain , consisting of a 5/rrt?>,^/ 
tin or zinc pail, having a small hole in one side, near 
the top, and inverted in a shallow pan of four inches 
larger diameter, or even a flat dish like a saucer or 
baking plate, having something in the centre, as an 
inverted flower pot for instance, is a good arrange- 
ment, allowing them to introduce only their bills 



10 
into the water, and permitting a dozen or twenty to 
drink at the same tim.e, for which reason we prefer it 
to a more expensive but less convenient fountain, 
which allows only two or three to drink at once. 

As they grow older, especially in warm weather, 
this precaution is less important. If the feeding 
boards are placed nearly level, it is an excellent plan 
to fill them half full of w^ater immediately after each 
feeding. The ducklings, with their broad bills, will 
clean the boards almost ;is thoroughly as a cat w^ould 
clean a saucer Avhich had just contained her supper 
of new milk. This allows every duckling an oppor- 
tunity to quench its thirst and prevents so constant 
visits to the watering pans Avhich must also be kept 
constantly full. 

One of the most important things connected with 
duck culture, is to furnish ample shade in hot weather. 
This they must have, either natui'al or artificial and 
without it the business had better not be attempted. 
Remember this. Shade can be easily and cheaply 
provided by using old boards or pine boughs, etc. 
They should be placed two feet or more high and 
not touch the ground, but allow a free circulation of 
air under them. 

Growing ducks, like old ones, should have access 
to ground 03'ster shells at all times, but should never 
be compelled to eat them by mixing with their food. 
During the last ten days previous to killing them, 
they must be fed with much judgment and skill, as 
the price depends entirely- upon their condition when 
reaching market. During this time we feed no shorts, 
using clear Indian meal with fifteen per cent, or more 
of scraps and also bone meal as before stated, and 
giving them one ration of green food daily. More 
than this will make their flesh too yellow, and unlike 
chickens, ducks should be white nieated. Our object 
is to fatten and harden them as much as possible. 
This highly concentrated grain food however, will 



11 

throw a duckling ofl* its feet if persisted in too long, 
but if vigorous to commence with, they will stand it 
for ten days and possibly two weeks. The more bone 
meal then fed, the less liable is the rich food to injure 
them. Some eminently successful breeders increase 
the proportion of Indian meal gradually, commenc- 
ing a week earlier, with 3-4 Indian meal and 1-4 
shorts, then omitting the shorts entirely and pro- 
ceeding in the manner already described. The duck- 
lings should be kept as quiet as possible, avoiding 
all unnecessary excitement and fright. If restless 
or turbulent during the night, lanterns hung or 
placed in their quarters will usually keep them 
quiet. They should reach 4 1-2 or 5 pounds weight, 
each, when nine or ten weeks old, and should then 
be killed before pin feathers start, as otherwise they 
cannot well be marketed for several weeks, by which 
time they will have eaten up all the profits. 

If you do not understand dressing ducks, you had 
better employ a professional picker to perform this 
business for you. We usually hire our pickers 
throughout the season paying them so much a month 
and their board, but the common price in the vicinity 
of Boston, for dressing ducks, is seven cents each. 
An expert will dress one in the highest style of the 
art in seven minutes or less, and better than a green- 
horn would in seven hours. In a flock of 100 or 150 
ducklings will be some that are too good to kill and 
should be reserved for breeders, while others may 
not be fat enough to kill. The flock needs to be 
assorted. For this purpose we use a wide light board 
or section of lath fence, two feet wide by ten or twelve 
long, having holes to admit the hands. We sloAvly 
drive some ducks into a corner of the yard and con- 
fine them there with this board, when we can easily 
select what we want, both to keep and to kill. As 
this performance at best frightens the entire flock 
more or less, and causes them to lose flesh bv abstain- 



12 

ing from their usual quantity of food by reason of 
increased timidity, it is important that when going 
through the performance, we select all we require for 
picking during the entire day, and not subject the 
birds to the ordeal more frequently than necessary. 
Ducklings and ducks should always be handled by 
the neck and never by the wings or legs, or you will 
probably cripple them for life. 

In killing ducks, use a slim keen knife and make 
a clean cut across the roof of the mouth. Let them 
•'bleed out" a moment, then strike them a sharp 
blow on the head, or their head against something 
hard to produce unconsciousness, when the feathers 
should be instantly removed. The body feathers and 
down are quite valuable and should be saved, as they 
will nearly pay for picking. What pin feathers and 
down are not easily removed, must be shaved off 
using a broad razor-like knife which the professional 
picker keeps for this purpose. Ducks need not be 
drawn nor headed. Leave feathers on tips of wings, 
pick the body clean, half way down the neck and 
throw into ice water where they remain until placed 
in the packing boxes for shipment. 

For further particulars concerning killing and mar- 
keting ducks and other poultry in summer, the reader 
is referred to pages 47 and 48 of our iSth annual 
circular, a copy of which is supposed to be in the 
possession of every civilized person now living, who 
is at all interested in poultry matters, and which we 
mail with much pleasure to any address upon receipt 
of a two cent stamp for postage. 



Note. — Purchasers of this treatise can deduct the 
price of it, when ordering P" — ^ bu*o-« nf n.^^. 

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



'^0 002 857 159 8 



